Sunday, April 5, 2009

Hiring a certified contractor to building a fireplace


You can find lots of books, videos, and detailed tutorials on how to build an outdoor fireplace. However, just building a fireplace isn't the same as building one correctly. You have to be sure to consider all the things that make sure that your fireplace not only works, but is also safe. An out of control fire can be dangerous to you, your property, and your home. That's why it's important to build your outdoor fireplace the right way.
There are a number of safety considerations when you build an outdoor fireplace. Follow the plans or instructions you're working from exactly, so that you'll know the fireplace you build will work correctly. Of course, this means selecting plans that are well designed and take everything into account. If it's a matter of spending a few dollars on a good book or a set of outdoor fireplace plans that you know will work, the extra cost will be worth it in the end.
Structural flaws are a big deal in a fireplace that needs to combust materials cleanly. If you're worried about your ability to build from scratch, don't take the chance. Instead, look for a company that offers outdoor fireplaces as part of prebuilt kits. You'll receive clear, detailed instructions, and materials that have been prefabricated for you, so you'll be able to build the best outdoor fireplace possible. Since everything's been figured out for you in advance, you don't have to worry about getting something wrong and discovering that all your effort has been wasted.
Since an outdoor fireplace doesn't use a damper, look for models that offer tall chimneys. This prevents smoke from being a nuisance while you enjoy your fire. Materials for outdoor fireplaces vary. There's traditional masonry, terracotta, block,etched cast iron, and even aluminum. Which you choose will depend on the look you want, as well as what you want out of your fireplace. Climate can also be a big factor, since some materials don't withstand freezing temperatures or very wet climates well.
No matter what kind of outdoor fireplace you choose to build: brick or cast iron, built from scratch or kit built, be sure that you do it right. Follow all instructions carefully and don't be tempted to cut corners. While your little change to the plan might not seem to be a big deal, it could make a big difference in the way your fireplace works. Beware of cost cutting, since quality materials are important to having a fireplace that lasts a long time. Building your outdoor fireplace correctly will give you the ability to enjoy your fire for a long time, without worrying about safety or durability. An outdoor fireplace is a great addition to almost any property. Just be sure to do it right. Our recommendations.

MPavers family


BBB Acredited Business

800-3176979

Built Raised Patio by MPavers inc.






Raised patios built with mortarless segmental
concrete paving and wall units are a growing
trend in the United States and Canada.
The combination of concrete pavers and
segmental concrete retaining walls provides
homeowners the beauty of natural stone at
cost competitive prices with virtually maintenance-
free service. Designers choose raised
patios because the possibilities are practically
limitless. Segmental concrete paving
and wall systems enable the combination of
straight or curved walls and steps in patios.
One of the unique benefits of raised patios
is that they are well-suited for steeply sloped
land. Sometimes that land is unsuitable for
wooden decks or is impossible to access with
ready-mix concrete trucks. In some cases,
wood decks can be combined with raised
patio designs such as the one shown with the
before and after views in Figure 1and 2.

Integrated wall and paver systems offer
superior structure, durability and ease of
repair when compared with other options
such as lumber or cast-in-place concrete. The
key to successful integration and performance
of these two systems is attention to design
detail and construction practices. This article
reviews some of the essential design and
construction considerations illustrated by MPAVERS INC.
A Flexible System
Like interlocking concrete pavement used in
streets, parking lots or residential driveways,
raised patios built with interlocking concrete
pavers and segmental concrete retaining
wall units work together as a flexible system.
Patios should be built on a firm foundation
of compacted soil and dense-graded, aggregate
base. Both should be compacted to a
minimum of 98% standard proctor density.
The compacted base acts as structural
support and as a leveling course for the
segmental wall system. The base should be
no less than 24 inches (600 mm) wide and
6 inches (150 mm) in depth. The depth of
the base supporting the wall depends on the
soil type, drainage, wall height and whether
the wall will have a sloped grade or other
setback walls above it. Most licensors of segmental
retaining wall systems provide guidelines
for base depth.
Since the base is flexible, it generally
does not need to be built below the frost
line since the base will adjust to slightly soil
movement during freeze and thaw cycles.
However, the walls need to resist sliding,
rotating, or tilting forces from water pore
pressures within the soil, especially pressures
that can build in the soil behind the wall.
Manufacturers (or licensors) of the wall units
should be consulted for guidance on design
and construction details regarding minimization
of water pressure in the soil. These often
involve using open-graded drainage courses
behind the walls to enable pressure release
and drainage of water from the soil.
For raised patio construction, a rule of
thumb is at least one-tenth of the exposed
wall height should be buried below grade.
For upper tiered walls, the rule of thumb is to
set them back at least two times the height
of the lower wall. Again, the manufacturer
should be consulted for design guidance on
specific projects.
Drainage is key
Like any segmental system, a raised patio
needs to have proper drainage to ensure
adequate performance. The top size of the
aggregate should be 3⁄4 inch (75 mm) and be free
draining angular material with no fines. This drainage
layer should extend a minimum of 12 in. (300 mm) behind the wall and
extend its full height.
Compacted, dense-graded
aggregate base is adjacent
to it. This base material supports
the concrete pavers
as in most patio projects. Rather than using soil,
some contractors fill and compact dense-graded
base behind the entire depth of the retaining
wall. This provides fill that is less likely to settle
than compacted soil during service.
If soil is used as fill behind the wall, it
must be carefully compacted in maximum 6
in. (150 mm) thick lifts at its optimum moisture
content and density monitored after compacting
each lift. If compacted soil backfill
is placed behind the drainage layer, then it
should be separated from the soil with geotextile.
This vertically placed geotextile will
protect the drainage layer from contamination
and clogging by the adjacent compacted
soil. Geotextile should also be placed horizontally
to separate the compacted soil from the
compacted aggregate base which supports the
bedding sand and concrete pavers.
Reinforcing the soil
In addition to providing a drainage layer in
front of the wall, provisions should be made for
lateral reinforcement of the (soil or compacted
aggregate base) backfill material. This is done
with geogrid connected between the wall units
and extending into the backfill. Retaining
wall manufacturers can provide guidance
on the vertical spacing of geogrid within
the wall coursing, as well as on the geogrid
length extending into the backfill materials.
Geogrid is stronger in one direction than
another. The stronger direction should be laid
perpendicular to the wall. Geogrid manufacturers
provide tables for estimating placement
locations within walls and these should be
consulted for all designs.
Waterproofing the building wall/
raised patio interface
Practically all raised patios rest against the
house foundation.
Since the base is flexible, it generally
does not need to be built below the frost
line since the base will adjust to slightly soil
movement during freeze and thaw cycles.
However, the walls need to resist sliding,
rotating, or tilting forces from water pore
pressures within the soil, especially pressures
that can build in the soil behind the wall.
Manufacturers (or licensors) of the wall units
should be consulted for guidance on design
and construction details regarding minimization
of water pressure in the soil. These often
involve using open-graded drainage courses
behind the walls to enable pressure release
and drainage of water from the soil.
For raised patio construction, a rule of
thumb is at least one-tenth of the exposed
wall height should be buried below grade.
For upper tiered walls, the rule of thumb is to
set them back at least two times the height
of the lower wall. Again, the manufacturer
should be consulted for design guidance on
specific projects.
Drainage is key
Like any segmental system, a raised patio
needs to have proper drainage to ensure
adequate performance. Figure 1 shows a
6 inch (150 mm) diameter perforated drain
pipe installed on the inside front face of the
first course of the wall. The drain pipe must
be covered with an open
graded aggregate drainage
layer. This helps
prevent water pressure
build-up behind the
wall. The top size of the
aggregate should be 3⁄4
inch (75 mm) and be free
draining angular material
with no fines. This drainage
layer should extend
a minimum of 12 in. (300
mm) behind the wall and
extend its full height.
Compacted, dense-graded
aggregate base is adjacent
to it. This base material supports
the concrete pavers
as in most patio projects. Rather than using soil,
some contractors fill and compact dense-graded
base behind the entire depth of the retaining
wall. This provides fill that is less likely to settle
than compacted soil during service.
If soil is used as fill behind the wall, it
must be carefully compacted in maximum 6
in. (150 mm) thick lifts at its optimum moisture
content and density monitored after compacting
each lift. If compacted soil backfill
is placed behind the drainage layer, then it
should be separated from the soil with geotextile.
This vertically placed geotextile will
protect the drainage layer from contamination
and clogging by the adjacent compacted
soil. Geotextile should also be placed horizontally
to separate the compacted soil from the
compacted aggregate base which supports the
bedding sand and concrete pavers.
Reinforcing the soil
In addition to providing a drainage layer in
front of the wall, provisions should be made for
lateral reinforcement of the (soil or compacted
aggregate base) backfill material. This is done
with geogrid connected between the wall units
and extending into the backfill. Figure 1 shows
a geogrid on the wall units and extending over
the drainage layer and backfill.
Generally, the geogrid is spaced a maximum
of 2 ft (600 mm) vertically. Retaining
wall manufacturers can provide guidance
on the vertical spacing of geogrid within
the wall coursing, as well as on the geogrid
length extending into the backfill materials.
Geogrid is stronger in one direction than
another. The stronger direction should be laid
perpendicular to the wall. Geogrid manufacturers
provide tables for estimating placement
locations within walls and these should be
consulted for all designs.
Waterproofing the building wall/
raised patio interface
Practically all raised patios rest against the
house foundation. Therefore, the foundation
wall in contact with the patio base should
Figure 1. The open-graded fill extends the full height of the raised
patio wall and a minimum of 12 in. (300 mm) from the back side of
the wall. The tubes penetrating the base will support a planned split
rail fence on the interlocking concrete paver patio.

Drainage mats (10 to 13 mm thick plastic waffles covered with
geotextile) also provide a means to prevent
water from entering the foundation.
Drainage mat installation should follow
manufacturer’s recommendations including
foundation wall surface preparation, fastening
to the wall, overlapping/joining and
draining the mats into perforated drain pipes
at the bottom of the patio backfill.
Installing the concrete pavers
The concrete pavers are installed according
to ICPI guidelines. The base should be
brought up to the proper elevation. The top
of the base will likely be below the top of
the segmental retaining walls. This enables
installation of bedding sand and pavers
such that the pavers on the walls and on the
base are placed at the same elevation with
no lippage. The surface of the base should
be smooth with a tolerance of at least 3/8 in.
(10 mm) over a
10 ft (3 m) straightedge.
A slope in the patio surface should
begin with a slope built into the foundation
for the segmental retaining walls. The slope
in the walls should enable the base and
pavers to drain water away from the building.
Although 2% grade is the minimum recommended
pitch for driveways, patios can
be set at a minimum of 1%. This provides
balance and comfort for users in chairs
while maintaining drainage away from the
foundation.
Figure 3 shows the site being prepared
for the pavers. String lines establish the top
of base and grades for drainage. Figure 5
shows the finished installation of the raised
patio with concrete pavers and segmental
retaining walls.
In conclusion
The value of this home was increased by
using steeply sloping land for a raised patio.
Figures 6and 7show the project utilizing
segmental concrete wall units and concrete
pavers to support a hot tub. This project demonstrates
how an ordinary backyard deck
can be expanded and the deck space transformed into several new living spaces.
Contact Mpavers for more information at
www.mpavers.com or over the Phone - (800) 317-6979
BBB Accredited business